This was my first ‘away’ holiday since moving to the new house. In my defence there has been a lot to do and then for fun, I took on a plot at a local allotment. I have taken breaks, but most have involved gardening activity!

I first went to Naples in 2016 as part of our ‘Grand Tour’ which included Venice, Florence, Pisa and Rome. Naples was a staging post to visit the islands and Amalfi coast and the city was rather ignored. I really liked the ‘vibe’ – a place where ordinary people went about their lives and planned to return.

I rented a small apartment in the San Lorenzo district, known for its vibrant street market, not far from the train station and next to the central district.

Most of our provisions came from the market. It reminded me of the Petticoat Lane market of my youth.

According to the guidebook, the Chiaia district is rather elegant, has a public beach and hosts the botanical garden. Clearly, in the time between the book being published and me visiting, the area’s grandeur has faded. The botanical garden is best described as derelict; there is evidence of its heyday a few centuries ago with marble fountains and arches. I think an exchange visit to Kew is in order.

The beach was deserted late afternoon on a weekday but when I went back a few days later it was full – the local sunbathing spot at the weekend.

This part of the bay is much hillier; this was the walk back to the station and the view.

I also found my way to the funicular railway to Castel Sant Elmo with amazing views of the whole city. You can see the creep of glass and metal towers.

I averaged 19000 steps per day. The Spanish quarter is full of nooks, crannies and steps…

The central district was a revelation and much less crowded during the day than in the evenings. Maradonna is still loved, the banners taking up valuable washing line space.

I gave my best wishes to Pucinello and found my way to ‘Christmas alley’, although I’m not sure where these ‘celebrity’ figures fit in the nativity scene.

I joined a tour to explore the underground waterways that were largely blocked to create huge air raid shelters during WW11. In the early 1900s the underground cisterns were just a memory and were found by chance at the back of wine cellar, the entrance hidden under a bed.

It was very easy to navigate using the metro for less £5 per day. There is an arts programme to beautify the stations. This is Toledo, I can’t decide on the inspiration: space ship, underwater, something else… It must drive the locals crazy – tourists stopping to take photos!

The local station was Garibaldi and from there it seemed possible to get everywhere else.

On alternate days, I took a day trip out of the city.

Palace of Caserta – impressive and disappointing at the same time, mostly because there was no water coming from the Carolina aqueduct. A local farmer had been diverting water to irrigate his crops. I can empathise.

Pozzouli – Pronounced potswally, (layered with an Italian accent it makes perfect sense). The town is home to a Roman amphitheatre and temple/marketplace. It was apparently one of the emperor’s favourite sea-side resort and not too far by chariot. It is also the closest port to take a ferry to Procida. At it’s narrowest point, it is possible to walk from one side of the island to the other.

It is picture postcard perfect but not full of visitors.

Following the locals took me to a tiny strip of beach with crystal clear water. An upgrade on Naples’ public beach.

The only repeat visit from 2016 was to Ischia, home to thermal spas and fumeroles. I was more interested in spending a day at a thermal spa, floating in pools are varying warmth or hot and cold. The foot spa was welcome.

I visited Herculaneum where I was encouraged to idle a while in a deckchair under a pomegranete tree. Perfect.

That was my 10 days in August 2025. I’ll be studying most of next year so any holiday will be be September/October. Maybe a rail trip involving Madrid and Granada or maybe the Balkans.